We use them every day: creams, lotions, deodorants, and perfumes. But what exactly are we applying to our bodies? These are cosmetic products. Let’s take a closer look at them to understand how they work and what benefits—or potential issues—they may bring.
What is a cosmetic?
The European Union classifies a cosmetic as “any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body.” In general terms, it can be defined as a product aimed at improving a person’s physical appearance. These products can be grouped into three main categories:
- Body, face, and hair care
- Personal hygiene
- Make-up
What are cosmetics composed of?
A cosmetic product consists of one or more active ingredients mixed into a “base,” which is itself composed of emulsifiers, preservatives, humectants, silicones, colorants, and fragrances. The composition of these elements is regulated by INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), the international system used to catalog every natural or synthetic element present in cosmetics. You may have noticed that a highly advertised active ingredient in a specific cream appears near the end of the ingredient list; this is because the list follows the order of percentage concentration.
Active Ingredient: How does it interact with the skin?
As the name suggests, the active ingredient is the component that actively participates in improving the biological surface it is applied to: our skin. Let’s analyze this organ to understand how it benefits from its interaction with cosmetics.
What is the skin?
The skin is a complex biological surface that acts as a barrier against the external environment, protecting us from microorganisms, physical trauma, and pathogens. Because of this protective function, the absorption of cosmetic products can be difficult. We can imagine the skin as a barrier composed of several layers:
- The Epidermis: The outermost part, primarily composed of the stratum corneum, which serves as an effective shield. Its thickness varies significantly; for example, the area around the eyes is much thinner than the rest of the face.
- The Dermis: This layer contains hair follicles, sebaceous glands, nerve endings, and blood vessels.
- The Hypodermis: The deepest layer, where subcutaneous fat is stored and larger blood vessels are located.
How does an active ingredient work on the skin?
Active ingredients interact with the skin by seeking the best pathway to penetrate and act with maximum efficacy. Two main scenarios usually occur:
- Small, fat-soluble (lipophilic) substances are absorbed with high efficiency. By interacting with the skin’s lipids, they can reach the deeper layers. Vitamins A, E, and D are among the most famous cosmetic ingredients in this category. Some medications, such as transdermal creams, gels, and patches, also rely on this dermal absorption.
- Large, water-soluble (hydrophilic) molecules struggle to be fully absorbed and often remain on the surface of the epidermis. Famous ingredients like hyaluronic acid and collagen fall into this class. To improve their absorption, they are often hydrolyzed—broken down into smaller fragments.
In general, the percentage of active ingredients in cosmetics is very low (1–3%), and only a small portion is actually absorbed. This explains why cosmetic results are not immediately visible. To assist the absorption process, specific ingredients are added to the product “base,” such as:
- Exfoliants (scrubs): These fluidize the superficial lipid matrix.
- Humectants: These increase the water content in the stratum corneum.
- Silicones: These create a film on the skin that traps the active ingredients.
When is a cosmetic effective?
According to Cosmetic Regulations, competent authorities must have access to data regarding the product’s identity, quality, safety, and attributed effects. These effects must be based on experimental studies, self-assessment tests, and scientific publications. Unfortunately, advertising tends to favor subjective evaluations and “perceived efficacy” over objective evaluations based on certified instrumental measurements.
What are the risks associated with cosmetics?
Like all mass-consumption products, cosmetics can trigger allergic reactions, which are becoming increasingly frequent. Common issues include:
- Contact dermatitis
- Contact urticaria (hives)
- Alterations in skin pigmentation
- Damage to the scalp and hair structure
These effects are not always directly caused by the cosmetic itself; they are often due to a genetic predisposition or pre-existing conditions. However, it is worth noting that e-commerce has facilitated the sale of counterfeit products which, lacking safety evaluations, often contain toxic or banned substances. To protect consumers, the European system RAPEX (Rapid Alert System for non-food consumer products) provides weekly updates on health risks, including those related to cosmetics. Recently, this has been bolstered by ICSMS, an information and communication system for pan-European market surveillance that ensures legislation is applied in compliance with safety standards.
Nanomnia technology for enhancing cosmetic effects
The core of Nanomnia’s technology is encapsulation. In the cosmetic world, this process aims to facilitate the absorption of active ingredients, thereby increasing their efficacy. By modulating the size and functionalizing the surface of the particles, we can optimize dermal penetration. The resulting reduction in the amount of active ingredient—which would otherwise remain uselessly on the surface—increases the efficiency of every treatment. In our laboratories, we can formulate products in the form of:
- Emulsions (using the LM20)
- Beads (using the Büchi B-390 encapsulator)
- Dry encapsulated powders (synthesized by the Büchi B-290 spray dryer)
Finally, our choice of natural, biocompatible, and biodegradable polymers allows us to operate with the highest level of safety for the consumer.
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